Guide to Different Diamond Shapes and Cuts

Rough diamonds are rarely used and set in jewellery as they lack brightness and sparkle. When you see a rough diamond you would not realise what it is until it has been cut and polished into one of the beautiful diamond shapes we see in jewellery stores today. However it is easy to get shape mixed up with the diamonds cut. Our guide explains the difference between a diamond’s shape and cut.

Diamond Cut Vs Diamond Shape

A diamond's shape is achieved when the rough mined diamond is cut into its final desired shape. The shape will be obvious from the surface of the diamond (bird's eye view). The diamond shape could be a round, oval, pear, or heart shape just to name a few. All diamond shapes other than a round or princess (square) shaped diamond are known as fancy shapes because they are unique shapes compared to these two classics. 

The Diamond cut, on the other hand, is a grade given to a diamond which assesses how well it was cut from the rough stone. There are three grades in total, The cut grade, (only available in round & princess shapes) and then two subset grades called polish and symmetry (given to all diamond shapes). They are graded from poor cut (lowest) to ideal cut (highest). These grades are important as they assess the brightness and sparkle of your diamond. 

What Makes An Excellent Or Ideal Diamond Cut? 

When we consider the cut of a diamond, it is assessed by the following factors;

• How shallow the stone is. A diamond that is cut too shallow will not sparkle as much and can end up with a dark shadow in the center of the diamond. Some call this a ‘fish eye’ as the shadow looks like the dark center of a fish’s eye which is viewable from the surface of the diamond. It is caused by shallow pavilion facets (facets on the bottom side of the diamond) which allows light to spill out the sides of the pavilion facets preventing the diamond from sparkling. 
• How Deep the Stone is. A diamond that is cut too deep has too much space in the pavilion (bottom side of diamond). This can cause a small shadow in the center of the diamond and has been called a nail head as it appears like the head of a nail with a dark rounded look. The depth causes the light to spill out the pavilion of the diamond reducing its sparkle.
• The diamond’s symmetry grade. This will inform you how well the diamond has been shaped and the placement and alignment of the diamond facets to reflect and refract light. 
• The diamond’s polish grade. This assesses the diamond's overall condition and appearance after all clarity characteristics have been recorded and it is graded for the presence of any polishing defects present.

 

Here at Diamond Heaven, we can classify the cut grades of your chosen diamond shape and take you through a range of different diamond certification options showing you how each one differs. 

What different diamond shapes are there?

Diamonds can come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. The most popular shapes in jewellers today include;

• Round
• Pear
• Oval
• Princess
• Radiant
• Marquise
• Asscher
• Emerald
• Cushion
• Heart

Round Brilliant 

This design is a classic round diamond shoulder set with a modern twist havin the floral tulip pattern in the side of the diamond setting for that something a little bit different. Round brilliant cut diamonds are a great choice for a traditional look. Round Brilliant Diamonds are the most popular diamond shape known worldwide. It usually consists of 57-58 facets and follows rules of standardisation that were set over 100 years ago in 1919 to maximise the greatest sparkle possible in a diamond shape. A Round Brilliant cut diamond is a great choice whether that be for an engagement ring or a pair of sparkling stud earrings or pendant that will never go out of style. 

Pear

This hidden halo engagement ring features a stunning pear shape, complimented by a diamond halo surrounding the setting facing outwards so that the sparkle can be seen from every side angle of the ring. The hidden halo wraps around the beautiful curved shape of the pear diamond hugging it in the most elegant manner creating a stunning minimal style engagement ring. A pear-shaped diamond takes the best elements of a round diamond and combines them with an elongated shape and pointed end. The round end of the diamond is wonderfully sparkly and has a similar shine to a round diamond because of its brilliance, and the pointed end of the diamond gives an impression of a larger surface size. Pear-shaped diamonds have been popular since the 1400s and have been a favourite of Adele, Elizabeth Taylor, Margot Robbie, Ariana Grande and Emily Ratajowski. 

Also known as a teardrop-shaped diamond, pear-shaped diamonds are an excellent choice for a feminine and classy look that will stand the test of time. The elongated shape is ideal for accentuating long and slender fingers in a stunning engagement ring but is also eye-catching when worn as a pendant or pair of earrings.

 

Oval

A great choice for an engagement ring would be the oval solitaire, a minimal and dainty design with a fabulous oval sized center, this design features intricate tiny diamonds in the side of the setting to add that unique feminine detail underneath the diamond centerpiece. An oval-shaped diamond sparkles just like a round diamond but this shape is beautifully elongated, which accentuates the length of your fingers making them appear more slender. The diamond is a relatively new shape, designed for maximum surface size and brilliance, that was only popularised in the 1960s and nowadays its trending in 2025 as one of the most popular shapes in jewellery and engagement rings.

A modern classic, an oval-shaped diamond is ideal for all the benefits of a round diamond but with a more contemporary twist.

Princess

Moving on from rounded edges, a princess cut is a squared shape with its clean cut 90-degree angles. Despite the square edges, the diamond is cut in a brilliant shape for maximum Sparkle. this sparkle is complimented beautifully in this shoulder set engagement ring style. 

Another modern cut, the princess-shaped diamond first became popular in the '60s and '70s and has since become a popular choice for those who love strong geometric shapes without sacrificing dramatic sparkles. 

Radiant

A radiant-shaped diamond is another square-shaped diamond, but instead of sharp geometric lines, the edges are rounded for a softer, more feminine look. A radiant-shaped diamond combines brilliant cuts and step cuts for a crushed ice appearance and can be elongated or fairly symmetrical, each one is unique and beautiful. One of the more modern styles of diamond, a radiant-shaped diamond only came onto the market in the late 1970s.

A radiant-cut diamond is the perfect choice of diamond for those who want the best of both worlds when it comes to geometry and sparkle. 

 

Marquise

A marquise-shaped diamond is a romantic design, and while often thought of as a modern shape resembling an eye or pair of lips, it was, in fact, first made popular in the 1700s by King Louis XV. The centre of the diamond will have maximum brilliance and elongate the finger as it tapers out towards the ends of the diamond. 

The marquise cut has recently been made more popular thanks to Selena Gomez and is a popular choice for a romantic and whimsical feel. Its shape also elongates the finger, making it appear long and slender. 

Asscher

An Asscher-shaped diamond is a square shape with large, deep step cuts. A step cut resembles a hall of mirrors, which, instead of sparkling like a round or princess cut, reflects the light back and forth, creating more of a flashing appearance. 

The Asscher shape first came into popularity in the early 1900s but peaked in the 1920s with the Art Deco movement. An Asscher-shaped diamond is the ideal choice for a glamorous look associated with the roaring twenties.

Emerald 

An emerald-shaped diamond is another diamond with strong connections to the Art Deco period - it is a long rectangular shape with bevelled corners and long rectangle step cut facets make you want to peer into the stone's beauty. The diamond reflects the light between the step cut facets, creating a classy flashing appearance rather than a brilliant sparkle. The elegant emerald center is complimented by a surrounding diamond halo facing outwards, tucked neatly around the large center stone so that the sparkle can be seen from every side angle of this ring design creating a stunning minimal style engagement ring complimented on a dainty, diamond shoulder set band.

An emerald-shaped diamond is the perfect choice for a clean and elegant appearance that reflects back to a bygone era whilst remaining timeless.

Cushion

A cushion-shaped diamond is a square or rectangular shape with slightly rounded corners, resembling a cushion or pillow shape. The diamond displays a high level of fire and brilliance, but its sparkle is slightly softer than a round-shaped diamond. The cushion cut is another modern classic that has evolved from an older cut known as an “old mine cut”, traditionally cut by hand.

The cushion shape is romantic and vintage in appearance in this dainty diamond shoulder set design and makes a good choice for an engagement ring or different jewellery styles with an antique charm and feel that is still very popular today.

Heart

The ultimate shape to represent love and the most romantic. A heart-shaped diamond is exactly how it’s described - heart-shaped. Its sparkle is inspired by the round cut, but the heart shape makes it a slightly more complex style. It has been a popular shape for diamonds since the 1500s and is the most romantic style available.

A heart-shaped diamond is a popular choice for those who are romantic at heart. It is showcased beautifully in a solitaire or dainty diamond shoulder set engagement ring design and It's a great choice for jewellery gifts too, demonstrating your love for others in a symbolic way whether that is a gift to your bridesmaid, your daughter, sister, mother or partner theres always a perfect heart shaped gift for your loved ones. 

Choosing a Diamond with Diamond Heaven

No matter the shape or cut of the diamond you prefer, we’re on hand to help you find the perfect gem! Use our simple-to-use jewellery builder or speak to our expert team of diamond experts and we can help you choose the perfect diamond for any occasion. Simply book an appointment today or visit us in-store.